Prepping Trim

soopa · 07-21-2005, 10:10 AM

OK, so we got started last night prepping all the trim for re-painting.

Right now, it's a layer of latex over two layers of old enamel (probably lead based) paint.

The latex just peels right off, no problem there, other then it gumming up sand paper.

What about the enamel though? Should I just leave it and prime over it? Should I try to get down to the wood? If so, what should I use? 60 grit sandpaper doesn't seem to be leaving a dent. Scrapers dont work. Heat gun just melts it into the wood.

**Scrib** · 07-21-2005, 10:24 AM

painting it white?

A good primer is all you really need. I don't think it would need to be stripped. Unless it's in really bad shape?

soopa · 07-21-2005, 10:28 AM

well, the latex needs to be stripped because they didnt prep/prime the enamel before painting over it... so the latex literally just falls off the wall. you rub it the wrong way and that shit comes along with you... heh

the enamel, yeah i wasnt sure. only reason i thought to strip, is because all that paint really fills in all the finer details in the moulding, i'd like to have sharp lines again...

wstevens · 07-21-2005, 10:29 AM

you shouldn't need to strip anything. If the trim is rough it may need some sanding, and if it's damaged you may want to use some wood epoxy, but I don't believe you need to sand the current paint off. I just primed my trim and painted. It worked out great for me. If you are using a darker color on the trim, have the paint store tint the primer with the paint color.

edit: I just read your second post and if the enamel wasn't primed and the latex is coming off, then I'd prolly strip it also. Don't try to strip the enamel off also or else you'll still be doing this job months from now.

soopa · 07-21-2005, 10:34 AM

k. cool.

trim will just be painted white, so i just got plain white primer. i don't like painted trim... reminds me of my moms hous.e haha

**Scrib** · 07-21-2005, 10:40 AM

yih, ok...

I'd just sand it down, get it nice and smooth and prime.

wstevens · 07-21-2005, 10:43 AM

Not this this is really related to trim, but if you don't already have a Dremel tool, buy one. It's a great thing to have around when doing home improvements...

Dfreder2 · 07-21-2005, 10:43 AM

Is replacing it with new out of the question? I stained and polyurethaned all of the new, red oak trim in my joint (1,100 sq. ft) along with twelve doors for almost a month straight, but the results are very gratifying.

Painting the walls becomes much easier (and faster) when you don't have to deal with cutting-in around trim. Putting up new trim after painting guarantees you a perfect job.

wstevens · 07-21-2005, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dfreder2

Is replacing it with new out of the question? I stained and polyurethaned all of the new, red oak trim in my joint (1,100 sq. ft) along with twelve doors for almost a month straight, but the results are very gratifying.

Painting the walls becomes much easier (and faster) when you don't have to deal with cutting-in around trim. Putting up new trim after painting guarantees you a perfect job.

This is a good suggestion, and requires at a least a semi-decent saw form cutting 45 degree angles in the trim joints.

wstevens · 07-21-2005, 10:54 AM

<--------- is going to enjoy this sub-forum by the way.

soopa · 07-21-2005, 10:56 AM

Replacing the trim is definate no-no. One, beyond the layers of paint, it's in really great shape. Two, I'd paint the trim anyway, I don't like the raw wood look on trim being as there is so much wood elsewhere in the house (floors, railings, doors).

Wouldn't be worth it. I'd gain very little for the cost/complexity.

**Scrib** · 07-21-2005, 11:31 AM

It's pretty mindless to run tape along the baseboards prior to paint. If you get a couple people you can tape a house in no time.

zeroday · 07-21-2005, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scrib

It's pretty mindless to run tape along the baseboards prior to paint. If you get a couple people you can tape a house in no time.

more like mind numbing...I had to tape up one of my stairways that's covered with shag burber (sp?) carpeting the other day..what a pain!

mrsteve · 07-28-2005, 10:15 PM

Not to over run your threads with environmental geek talk but...

Don't sand that paint! The chances of it containing lead based paint are extremely high (90% of homes built before 1950 have lead based paint; 50% of homes from 1950-1978 do as well). Most commonly found on wood trim, windows, and door components. Sanding lead based paint is the best way to introduce lead dust into your home and into your body. It needs to be chemically stripped or replaced if you want to do it the right way.

JLatimer · 07-29-2005, 6:42 AM

You can try just roughing up the paint with those 3M pads that work like steel wool, but without the mess. Then prime... I would recommend that you use a Alkyd (oil-base) primer, even if you are going to put latex over top. That will help prevent adhesion problems with the latex over oil-base.

SDCGTSX · 07-29-2005, 12:54 PM

If it's lead based paint, be careful with sanding. Wear a good dust mask, not the cheapo cup things. Stripping is SERIOUS work on a house. Personally, I'd just scrape the shit out of it and prime and paint over. Most cases it'll look pretty good without having to really dig out.

mrsteve · 07-29-2005, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDCGTSX

If it's lead based paint, be careful with sanding. Wear a good dust mask, not the cheapo cup things. Stripping is SERIOUS work on a house. Personally, I'd just scrape the shit out of it and prime and paint over. Most cases it'll look pretty good without having to really dig out.

You need more than a good dust mask. You need a negative pressure 1/2 face respirator that is NIOSH approved. Same goes for the respirator canisters. They need to have the P100 NIOSH approval number. Dust masks don't do shit.

supermegaglossy · 07-29-2005, 1:16 PM

sand sand, and sand again. if the latex peels off, then whatever you put over it is going to peel too, so get it off. and if there's oil-based paint underneath, then def. use oil paint on top of it.

mrsteve · 07-29-2005, 1:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supermegaglossy

sand sand, and sand again. if the latex peels off, then whatever you put over it is going to peel too, so get it off. and if there's oil-based paint underneath, then def. use oil paint on top of it.

Read the entire thread... it's most likely lead based paint. Don't sand!

SDCGTSX · 07-29-2005, 2:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrsteve

You need more than a good dust mask. You need a negative pressure 1/2 face respirator that is NIOSH approved. Same goes for the respirator canisters. They need to have the P100 NIOSH approval number. Dust masks don't do shit.

Actually, I'm thinking that some nosey neighbor could report you for code violation. You can get serious fines for asbestos and lead paint violations. at least here in Cali. I still push for scrape, prime, and paint.

mrsteve · 07-29-2005, 2:17 PM

Not sure about California as I've never done work there. But in New York he should be okay doing the work himself. It's when you hire a contractor to do the work that you start getting roadblocked with red tape.

soopa · 07-29-2005, 2:54 PM

Too late. All been sanded.

Being as there's no furniture, all the floors will be refinished/cleaned, the trim/walls cleaned and painted, and half the house completely gutted... a little bit of lead paint dust is the least of my concerns.

As for legality, yeah, I believe you're right about NY... nobody gives a shit so long as you did the work yourself.

chef chris · 07-29-2005, 3:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soopa

Replacing the trim is definate no-no. One, beyond the layers of paint, it's in really great shape. Two, I'd paint the trim anyway, I don't like the raw wood look on trim being as there is so much wood elsewhere in the house (floors, railings, doors).

Wouldn't be worth it. I'd gain very little for the cost/complexity.

Hmmm...My last house had about 9 million coats of paint on the trim...it was infinitely easier to replace it. At the time I didn't have a good compound miter saw, so I used the square edged molding with the rosettes in the corners...couldn't have been easier since it was only straight cuts. Actually...that type of molding would go extremely well in a house like yours. The rosettes make the molding look more "antiquey", without looking 'old' per say.

07-21-2005, 10:10 AM	#1
soopa Alumni Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Albany, NY Age: 26 Posts: 137,694	Prepping Trim OK, so we got started last night prepping all the trim for re-painting. Right now, it's a layer of latex over two layers of old enamel (probably lead based) paint. The latex just peels right off, no problem there, other then it gumming up sand paper. What about the enamel though? Should I just leave it and prime over it? Should I try to get down to the wood? If so, what should I use? 60 grit sandpaper doesn't seem to be leaving a dent. Scrapers dont work. Heat gun just melts it into the wood.

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07-21-2005, 10:24 AM	#2
Scrib Administrator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Northwest IN Age: 31 Posts: 23,240	painting it white? A good primer is all you really need. I don't think it would need to be stripped. Unless it's in really bad shape?

07-21-2005, 10:28 AM	#3
soopa Alumni Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Albany, NY Age: 26 Posts: 137,694	well, the latex needs to be stripped because they didnt prep/prime the enamel before painting over it... so the latex literally just falls off the wall. you rub it the wrong way and that shit comes along with you... heh the enamel, yeah i wasnt sure. only reason i thought to strip, is because all that paint really fills in all the finer details in the moulding, i'd like to have sharp lines again...

07-21-2005, 10:29 AM	#4
wstevens Interesting. Interesting. Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: NorCal Age: 36 Posts: 7,554	you shouldn't need to strip anything. If the trim is rough it may need some sanding, and if it's damaged you may want to use some wood epoxy, but I don't believe you need to sand the current paint off. I just primed my trim and painted. It worked out great for me. If you are using a darker color on the trim, have the paint store tint the primer with the paint color. edit: I just read your second post and if the enamel wasn't primed and the latex is coming off, then I'd prolly strip it also. Don't try to strip the enamel off also or else you'll still be doing this job months from now.

07-21-2005, 10:34 AM	#5
soopa Alumni Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Albany, NY Age: 26 Posts: 137,694	k. cool. trim will just be painted white, so i just got plain white primer. i don't like painted trim... reminds me of my moms hous.e haha

07-21-2005, 10:40 AM	#6
Scrib Administrator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Northwest IN Age: 31 Posts: 23,240	yih, ok... I'd just sand it down, get it nice and smooth and prime.

07-21-2005, 10:43 AM	#7
wstevens Interesting. Interesting. Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: NorCal Age: 36 Posts: 7,554	Not this this is really related to trim, but if you don't already have a Dremel tool, buy one. It's a great thing to have around when doing home improvements...

07-21-2005, 10:43 AM	#8
Dfreder2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Age: 56 Posts: 1,030	Is replacing it with new out of the question? I stained and polyurethaned all of the new, red oak trim in my joint (1,100 sq. ft) along with twelve doors for almost a month straight, but the results are very gratifying. Painting the walls becomes much easier (and faster) when you don't have to deal with cutting-in around trim. Putting up new trim after painting guarantees you a perfect job.

07-21-2005, 10:54 AM	#10
wstevens Interesting. Interesting. Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: NorCal Age: 36 Posts: 7,554	<--------- is going to enjoy this sub-forum by the way.

07-21-2005, 10:56 AM	#11
soopa Alumni Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Albany, NY Age: 26 Posts: 137,694	Replacing the trim is definate no-no. One, beyond the layers of paint, it's in really great shape. Two, I'd paint the trim anyway, I don't like the raw wood look on trim being as there is so much wood elsewhere in the house (floors, railings, doors). Wouldn't be worth it. I'd gain very little for the cost/complexity.

07-21-2005, 11:31 AM	#12
Scrib Administrator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Northwest IN Age: 31 Posts: 23,240	It's pretty mindless to run tape along the baseboards prior to paint. If you get a couple people you can tape a house in no time.

07-28-2005, 10:15 PM	#14
mrsteve Most Merciful Messiah Join Date: May 2003 Location: South Riding, VA Age: 25 Posts: 28,370	Not to over run your threads with environmental geek talk but... Don't sand that paint! The chances of it containing lead based paint are extremely high (90% of homes built before 1950 have lead based paint; 50% of homes from 1950-1978 do as well). Most commonly found on wood trim, windows, and door components. Sanding lead based paint is the best way to introduce lead dust into your home and into your body. It needs to be chemically stripped or replaced if you want to do it the right way.

07-29-2005, 6:42 AM	#15
JLatimer Non Acura User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 39 Posts: 1,399	You can try just roughing up the paint with those 3M pads that work like steel wool, but without the mess. Then prime... I would recommend that you use a Alkyd (oil-base) primer, even if you are going to put latex over top. That will help prevent adhesion problems with the latex over oil-base.

07-29-2005, 12:54 PM	#16
SDCGTSX Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Age: 31 Posts: 1,208	If it's lead based paint, be careful with sanding. Wear a good dust mask, not the cheapo cup things. Stripping is SERIOUS work on a house. Personally, I'd just scrape the shit out of it and prime and paint over. Most cases it'll look pretty good without having to really dig out.

07-29-2005, 1:16 PM	#18
supermegaglossy Go Noles! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Estero/Tallahassee, FL Age: 23 Posts: 978	sand sand, and sand again. if the latex peels off, then whatever you put over it is going to peel too, so get it off. and if there's oil-based paint underneath, then def. use oil paint on top of it.

07-29-2005, 2:17 PM	#21
mrsteve Most Merciful Messiah Join Date: May 2003 Location: South Riding, VA Age: 25 Posts: 28,370	Not sure about California as I've never done work there. But in New York he should be okay doing the work himself. It's when you hire a contractor to do the work that you start getting roadblocked with red tape.

07-29-2005, 2:54 PM	#22
soopa Alumni Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Albany, NY Age: 26 Posts: 137,694	Too late. All been sanded. Being as there's no furniture, all the floors will be refinished/cleaned, the trim/walls cleaned and painted, and half the house completely gutted... a little bit of lead paint dust is the least of my concerns. As for legality, yeah, I believe you're right about NY... nobody gives a shit so long as you did the work yourself.