Relocating Light Switches - Hypothetical Q

moeronn · 10-19-2009, 1:31 PM

We're looking at houses and saw one we liked. It's pretty dialed in other than a few minor things. The main one being the location of the light switches in the kitchen.

Basically, they put 6 switches (don't know what all of them are for yet) on the wall where the refridgerator goes, so the switches will be behind the fridge.

To move these to the other side of a doorway, all I need to do is put a smaller j-box behind the fridge, connect extension wires to the other side of the door and install a new j-box & switches, right?

Of course, there are cabinets on the other side of the door, so it isn't that easy, but I just wanted to make sure the concept is correct.

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Acurazine!

gatrhumpy · 10-19-2009, 2:16 PM

You have two options:

1.) You could do as you proposed, but you would have to make sure that the switch behind the fridge is always on, otherwise you're going to have two switches in series. Both have to be closed for the circuit to work.

2.) I would cut the wires going to the switch in the back behind the fridge and make your own junction box where you want. Just make sure that you disconnect the power first.

If you can't handle that, call an electrician. Best money you'll ever spend.

**KaMLuNg** · 10-19-2009, 2:16 PM

there should be two wires coming into the switch... why not just extend those wires to whereever u want to go and then cover up the old switch...

moeronn · 10-19-2009, 2:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KaMLuNg

there should be two wires coming into the switch... why not just extend those wires to whereever u want to go and then cover up the old switch...

This is basically what I was suggesting, but you can't just bury wire connections inside the wall - there needs to be a junction box to have access to them. So it would be just a plain plate/cover behind the fridge where new wires connect to existing (no switch), then new wires run to the other side of the door where new junction box with switches would go.

wrxyboy · 10-19-2009, 3:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moeronn

This is basically what I was suggesting, but you can't just bury wire connections inside the wall - there needs to be a junction box to have access to them. So it would be just a plain plate/cover behind the fridge where new wires connect to existing (no switch), then new wires run to the other side of the door where new junction box with switches would go.

You can bury them, it is against most electrical practice but it can be done. I would suggest wire nuts and than electrical tape to hold it all together and prevent a short in the future. I would also patch the dry wall after everything is tested and no need for a plate. But what you are thinking will work.

**NSXNEXT** · 10-19-2009, 3:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxyboy

You can bury them, it is against most electrical practice but it can be done. I would suggest wire nuts and than electrical tape to hold it all together and prevent a short in the future. I would also patch the dry wall after everything is tested and no need for a plate. But what you are thinking will work.

I'd do it. Once the drywall is on, no one will ever know. I would use a wire nut with some heat shrink tubing for good measure. Not a fan of electrical tape for permanent connections.

**fsttyms1** · 10-19-2009, 4:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxyboy

You can bury them, it is against most electrical practice but it can be done. I would suggest wire nuts and than electrical tape to hold it all together and prevent a short in the future. I would also patch the dry wall after everything is tested and no need for a plate. But what you are thinking will work.

**KaMLuNg** · 10-19-2009, 4:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxyboy

You can bury them, it is against most electrical practice but it can be done. I would suggest wire nuts and than electrical tape to hold it all together and prevent a short in the future. I would also patch the dry wall after everything is tested and no need for a plate. But what you are thinking will work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NSXNEXT

I'd do it. Once the drywall is on, no one will ever know. I would use a wire nut with some heat shrink tubing for good measure. Not a fan of electrical tape for permanent connections.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fsttyms1

exactly!!! job done!!!

JBONN · 10-19-2009, 4:20 PM

If the fridge is on a partition wall and beside a door, you could cut a hole in the other side of the wall and flip the existing junction box around...not sure if that would work for you but it would be alot less work!

moeronn · 10-19-2009, 4:20 PM

If the wall plate wouldn't end up being behind the fridge, then I would consider it. But since it will be "hidden" anyway, may as well do it properly.

I would never hide electrical connections under drywall. Even if I were to replace vent fans in the bathrooms of my current place.

moeronn · 10-19-2009, 4:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBONN

If the fridge is on a partition wall and beside a door, you could cut a hole in the other side of the wall and flip the existing junction box around...not sure if that would work for you but it would be alot less work!

The other side of the wall is the exterior of the house.

hornyleprechaun · 10-19-2009, 4:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moeronn

The other side of the wall is the exterior of the house.

So....

slobeatz · 10-21-2009, 11:39 AM

I guess it really depends on where the wires run. In my house, all of the wires for ceiling light switches run up into the attic (one floor house). I've already had to move a switch and I just pulled the wire out of the wall and ran it back down another. Any switches that correspond to plugs are run through the basement. If it's a single story house, you may be able to do the same.

Scottman111 · 10-27-2009, 12:07 PM

I would like to help you Mo, I really would, but I've yet to receive payment on my last consultation

If you still have any questions let me know.

moeronn · 10-27-2009, 12:25 PM

Thanks Scott and everyone for the help and info. At this time, it's a moot point since the house in question is off the table.

We are under contract for another place, but I'm trying to keep my hopes in check until after the inspection and appraisals tomorrow.

10-19-2009, 2:16 PM	#2
gatrhumpy Check out the wife's blog Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 7,375	You have two options: 1.) You could do as you proposed, but you would have to make sure that the switch behind the fridge is always on, otherwise you're going to have two switches in series. Both have to be closed for the circuit to work. 2.) I would cut the wires going to the switch in the back behind the fridge and make your own junction box where you want. Just make sure that you disconnect the power first. If you can't handle that, call an electrician. Best money you'll ever spend. __________________ 2004 Graphite Pearl Accord EX V6 with navigation --------------------------------------- Here's what's new in Jacksonville! http://www.outandaboutinjax.blogspot.com/

10-19-2009, 2:16 PM	#3
KaMLuNg Moderator 2007 Acura TL My Garage Trader Rating: (2) Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Belleville, NJ Age: 26 Posts: 10,298	there should be two wires coming into the switch... why not just extend those wires to whereever u want to go and then cover up the old switch... __________________ '01 GS430 Black Onyx/Ivory [Daizen\|Tein] '07 TL DMM/Parchment [Fujita\|P2R\|Progress] '98 3.2TL CBM/Grey [Stock] '07 Corolla LE SSM/Grey [Stock]

10-19-2009, 4:20 PM	#9
JBONN Vegas Bum Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton ON Age: 27 Posts: 36	If the fridge is on a partition wall and beside a door, you could cut a hole in the other side of the wall and flip the existing junction box around...not sure if that would work for you but it would be alot less work! __________________ 2002 MDX, Silver - 35% Tint, 4pt Rev Sensor w/flip monitor 2006 TL, Anthracite - 35% Tint, USA Spec PA11-HON2y , LOC; 2X10'S @ 1000w, Blue LED Interior

10-21-2009, 11:39 AM	#13
slobeatz Littering and..... Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: May 2004 Location: Albany, NY Age: 29 Posts: 645	I guess it really depends on where the wires run. In my house, all of the wires for ceiling light switches run up into the attic (one floor house). I've already had to move a switch and I just pulled the wire out of the wall and ran it back down another. Any switches that correspond to plugs are run through the basement. If it's a single story house, you may be able to do the same. __________________ Hondata 18" RonJon Inspyres Injen CAI Eibach Pro-Kit Koni Neuspeed Yellows Comptech Rear Swaybar OEM Body Kit Avincar Speakers 35% Tint Black headlight housings

10-19-2009, 4:20 PM	#10
moeronn is learning to moonwalk i 2004 Acura TL Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,729	If the wall plate wouldn't end up being behind the fridge, then I would consider it. But since it will be "hidden" anyway, may as well do it properly. I would never hide electrical connections under drywall. Even if I were to replace vent fans in the bathrooms of my current place.

10-27-2009, 12:07 PM	#14
Scottman111 Things destroy my things Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Mar 2005 Age: 24 Posts: 13,729	I would like to help you Mo, I really would, but I've yet to receive payment on my last consultation If you still have any questions let me know.

10-27-2009, 12:25 PM	#15
moeronn is learning to moonwalk i 2004 Acura TL Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,729	Thanks Scott and everyone for the help and info. At this time, it's a moot point since the house in question is off the table. We are under contract for another place, but I'm trying to keep my hopes in check until after the inspection and appraisals tomorrow.