Fixing the roof?

hornyleprechaun · 11-04-2009, 10:37 AM

Has anyone tried to replace part of their roof? The section right above my garage is probably 20ftX8ft. The bottom left has started to leak, and I haven't got any estimates yet, but I'd have to think that doing it myself would be cheapest, and really not that hard.

I think these are the steps..

1) Remove old shingles
2) Replace any rotted plywood (I know the bottom left will be)
3) Lay down felt paper
4) Install shingles

I plan on renting a nail gun from home depot to make the process easier and faster.

Anyone attempted this before, or should I just get someone else to do it?

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dallison · 11-04-2009, 11:45 AM

i think it's pretty easy, i would make sure the flashing is installed correctly, if there is any at all. Esp if you think there may be wood damage.
Is your house about 10 years old? If so, something should be done about the premature wear on the shingles. water is getting in somewhere and causing you some damage.

I think replacing the materials shouldn't be hard at all, but somthing needs to be looked at to prevent this from happening again.

hornyleprechaun · 11-04-2009, 12:17 PM

I know what the problem is.. you can barely see in the picture, but there is a gutter on the left and right side that feeds the water from the top roof onto the roof over the garage.. The house is around 12-13 years old, and over time the water has eroded the "glue" that has held the shingles down.

I do plan on replacing any wood that is damaged, and making sure that there is proper flashing. I also do plan on re-routing those 2 gutters to avoid future damage to the new shingles.

subinf · 11-04-2009, 1:37 PM

I tried fixing my parents roof once. It didn't seem to difficult but once I tore off the old wood singles they told me they were just going to hire someone to replace the entire thing because they didn't want wood as the roof anymore. I probably would have messed something up anyway.

svtmike · 11-04-2009, 5:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornyleprechaun

I know what the problem is.. you can barely see in the picture, but there is a gutter on the left and right side that feeds the water from the top roof onto the roof over the garage.. The house is around 12-13 years old, and over time the water has eroded the "glue" that has held the shingles down.

I do plan on replacing any wood that is damaged, and making sure that there is proper flashing. I also do plan on re-routing those 2 gutters to avoid future damage to the new shingles.

Looks to me like the downspout on the left side is too close to the edge of the roof over the garage front, and the torrent that is supposed to run down the garage roof actually runs over the edge left edge, around the lip, and thanks to the wonders of surface tension underneath to the sheathing. I'd route the two second story downspouts all the way to the ground and re-build the roof. Since you don't have to worry about ice dams, just get a book on it and go at it as long as you're confident that you can get the flashing where the second story wall meets the garage roof right (I can't tell what material your house is sided with).

surfer rick · 11-04-2009, 5:51 PM

I had this known roof leak issue when I purchased my home. A covered lanai (sunroom) was built into the backyard as an addendum. The original monier tile roof is slanted but the lanai room is flat. Well, a half-ass job was done and water would run down the monier tile and under an epoxy coating contiguous between the lanai roof and over the 2 lower rows of monier tile. This led to leaking of the sunroom during heavy rain. The original owner had tried to fix this twice but what needed to be done was remove the 2 lower rows of monier and run a new waterproof coating UNDER the monier and over the entire lanai roof creating a slight grade so water would not pool.

No way I was gonna touch monier with a 10 foot pole so I contracted it out for under $3000 which includes a 5 year watertight guarantee.

In your case looks like you might need to replace only the lower 2 rows? What material is your shingles made of? I agree with Mike on fixing the gutters, I think the downspouts need to be more distant from the roof.

hornyleprechaun · 11-04-2009, 6:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svtmike

Looks to me like the downspout on the left side is too close to the edge of the roof over the garage front, and the torrent that is supposed to run down the garage roof actually runs over the edge left edge, around the lip, and thanks to the wonders of surface tension underneath to the sheathing. I'd route the two second story downspouts all the way to the ground and re-build the roof. Since you don't have to worry about ice dams, just get a book on it and go at it as long as you're confident that you can get the flashing where the second story wall meets the garage roof right (I can't tell what material your house is sided with).

That was the plan with those 2 upper gutters.. I was going to re-route them straight to the ground, but I haven't really looked into it yet.

The front of the house is stucco, so the flashing near the house wouldn't be too hard to accomplish. I'm going to price material tomorrow, and I already have 1 friend willing to help, and possibly another, which will speed up the process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by surfer rick

In your case looks like you might need to replace only the lower 2 rows? What material is your shingles made of? I agree with Mike on fixing the gutters, I think the downspouts need to be more distant from the roof.

I can't just replace the lower 2 rows since the bottom left plywood is rotted.. I'd probably at best have to replace 6-8 rows, but considering that is > 33% of the roof then I may as well just replace the whole thing with new, matching shingles.

The shingles are 3-tab asphalt.

svtmike · 11-04-2009, 6:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornyleprechaun

The front of the house is stucco, so the flashing near the house wouldn't be too hard to accomplish. I'm going to price material tomorrow, and I already have 1 friend willing to help, and possibly another, which will speed up the process.

So I think if it's done right, there is felt paper on the wall which is over the flashing, which is over the shingles. Then the wire lath and stucco is over the felt paper.

When you pull up the old roof, you're going to re-use the flashing and put the new roofing down underneath it? Or is there no flashing there?

BTW, nail gun = waste of money IMO. Get a helper with a hammer to cut shingles and snap chalk lines, etc. since it's such a small section of roof.

hornyleprechaun · 11-04-2009, 7:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svtmike

So I think if it's done right, there is felt paper on the wall which is over the flashing, which is over the shingles. Then the wire lath and stucco is over the felt paper.

When you pull up the old roof, you're going to re-use the flashing and put the new roofing down underneath it? Or is there no flashing there?

BTW, nail gun = waste of money IMO. Get a helper with a hammer to cut shingles and snap chalk lines, etc. since it's such a small section of roof.

I honestly don't know.. I haven't looked close enough yet.

You think a nail gun for $20 for the day is waste of money?

svtmike · 11-04-2009, 7:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornyleprechaun

I honestly don't know.. I haven't looked close enough yet.

You think a nail gun for $20 for the day is waste of money?

Yeah, you won't spend that much time nailing. You'll spend a lot more time putting down the felt paper and cutting the shingles and going up and down ladders.

Edit -- I fixed a small section of the roof on my brother's house a few weeks ago. His siding is cedar shakes instead of stucco. The vast majority of the time was spent getting the flashing and ice dam sheeting right. Actually laying the shingles was a snap; when I was done I had no regrets that we didn't have a roof nailer.

hornyleprechaun · 11-04-2009, 7:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svtmike

Yeah, you won't spend that much time nailing. You'll spend a lot more time putting down the felt paper and cutting the shingles and going up and down ladders.

Edit -- I fixed a small section of the roof on my brother's house a few weeks ago. His siding is cedar shakes instead of stucco. The vast majority of the time was spent getting the flashing and ice dam sheeting right. Actually laying the shingles was a snap; when I was done I had no regrets that we didn't have a roof nailer.

Thanks for the help. I'll give an update after I price the materials tomorrow.

hornyleprechaun · 11-05-2009, 1:12 PM

Well I talked to a roof guy this morning and he said he would do it for $450.. While I would love to do the roof myself, I think $450 is a great price to pay to not have to do any work

surfer rick · 11-05-2009, 2:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornyleprechaun

Well I talked to a roof guy this morning and he said he would do it for $450.. While I would love to do the roof myself, I think $450 is a great price to pay to not have to do any work

Take it and run! Just make sure he warranties it for at least 1 year or longer depending on if you're as paranoid as me about shitty contractors

hornyleprechaun · 11-05-2009, 2:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by surfer rick

Take it and run! Just make sure he warranties it for at least 1 year or longer depending on if you're as paranoid as me about shitty contractors

It will probably end up around $500-$600 because I don't believe the first estimate included replacing a rotted piece of plywood. He is coming tomorrow, so I'll know for sure.

He got great reviews online, so I'll have to see what happens tomorrow.

surfer rick · 11-05-2009, 3:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornyleprechaun

It will probably end up around $500-$600 because I don't believe the first estimate included replacing a rotted piece of plywood. He is coming tomorrow, so I'll know for sure.

He got great reviews online, so I'll have to see what happens tomorrow.

That includes materials? If so that's a good price.

hornyleprechaun · 11-05-2009, 3:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by surfer rick

That includes materials? If so that's a good price.

Yeah it includes materials AFAIK over the phone. I got another quote for $800, so considering this one may end up around $600 it seems like a good deal.

11-04-2009, 12:17 PM	#3
hornyleprechaun Bent = #1 Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Marietta, GA Age: 25 Posts: 10,598	I know what the problem is.. you can barely see in the picture, but there is a gutter on the left and right side that feeds the water from the top roof onto the roof over the garage.. The house is around 12-13 years old, and over time the water has eroded the "glue" that has held the shingles down. I do plan on replacing any wood that is damaged, and making sure that there is proper flashing. I also do plan on re-routing those 2 gutters to avoid future damage to the new shingles. __________________ 97' Black Acura 2.2 CL

11-04-2009, 5:51 PM	#6
surfer rick Kaskade is spinning Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Somewhere in the Pacific Posts: 2,275	I had this known roof leak issue when I purchased my home. A covered lanai (sunroom) was built into the backyard as an addendum. The original monier tile roof is slanted but the lanai room is flat. Well, a half-ass job was done and water would run down the monier tile and under an epoxy coating contiguous between the lanai roof and over the 2 lower rows of monier tile. This led to leaking of the sunroom during heavy rain. The original owner had tried to fix this twice but what needed to be done was remove the 2 lower rows of monier and run a new waterproof coating UNDER the monier and over the entire lanai roof creating a slight grade so water would not pool. No way I was gonna touch monier with a 10 foot pole so I contracted it out for under $3000 which includes a 5 year watertight guarantee. In your case looks like you might need to replace only the lower 2 rows? What material is your shingles made of? I agree with Mike on fixing the gutters, I think the downspouts need to be more distant from the roof. __________________ 2007 Carrera S /Meteor Grey /19" Classic Wheels /Adaptive Sports Seats/ Aluminum Door Finishers and Rear Cnt Cnsl/ Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipes/ Bose 2003 Honda Element Ex

11-05-2009, 1:12 PM	#12
hornyleprechaun Bent = #1 Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Marietta, GA Age: 25 Posts: 10,598	Well I talked to a roof guy this morning and he said he would do it for $450.. While I would love to do the roof myself, I think $450 is a great price to pay to not have to do any work __________________ 97' Black Acura 2.2 CL

11-04-2009, 11:45 AM	#2
dallison registered pw Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: south central pa Posts: 29,217	i think it's pretty easy, i would make sure the flashing is installed correctly, if there is any at all. Esp if you think there may be wood damage. Is your house about 10 years old? If so, something should be done about the premature wear on the shingles. water is getting in somewhere and causing you some damage. I think replacing the materials shouldn't be hard at all, but somthing needs to be looked at to prevent this from happening again.

11-04-2009, 1:37 PM	#4
subinf One on the right for me Trader Rating: (0) Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bay Area, CA Age: 26 Posts: 19,605	I tried fixing my parents roof once. It didn't seem to difficult but once I tore off the old wood singles they told me they were just going to hire someone to replace the entire thing because they didn't want wood as the roof anymore. I probably would have messed something up anyway.