adamb113

I nave an '05 RL with 55k miles. I want to prevent the inevitable drivers seat tear that will occur at approx 150k miles. So I am looking for care that won't make it smell or feel best. I just want what will protect it best. I have read on these posts everything from only use woolite and a damp cloth to use the $60 bottle Leathurette. But the confusing factor is that this is a coated leather (so I read) which means that pretty much all of those care products don't get to the hide anyway?

What really does cause the cracking? Being thinned out from friction and dirt or getting dried out?
Thanks,
Adam

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Leatherique will soak into the the hide its very good stuff and highly recommended. Use that and some prestine clean every year and do regular conditioning with Zaino's leather in a bottle! Great stuff and smells to die for

Jesstzn

The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied (natural, pigmented, vinyl, urethane coated, and etc) as the methodologies are very specific for each type of leather and/or finish applied. Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself

The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, the hide is then has a pigmentation coating (a water-based paint) to ensure a uniform colour. By-cast hides are further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.

Leather Finishes
Leather is a natural product, with a pH of 4.0 and comes from animal (bovine0 hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them. A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather is tanned cow hide, which are laterally split, rendering an upper (Aniline) and lower cut (By-cast).

The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The upper portion is the top-grain, or Aniline, the lower portion is the split or by-cast. This cutting process creates different faces to the leather. The outside face of the top grain shows the natural grain characteristics, but is otherwise smooth, whereas, the underside appears as unfinished or suede


Myth buster - many leather products market themselves on how they feed leather. In fact your car's leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion to give them the desired colour and then a clear coat. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating as well protected as possible. These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your vehicles polyurathane upholstery or the car's urethane paint finish with protein, collagen, or exotic oils...

Credit TOGWT

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Because leatherique Rejuvenator penetrates deep into the actual hide, even on "coated" leather, as it plumps the actual leather fibers, it will release any existing combinations of commercial products that are surface coatings and act to trap dirt, perspiration, and anything else within the coating that commercial products leave behind.
I'll reinterate that all leather that is used as upholstery is surface coated. Even nubuck has a waxed finish and is not totally bare. There is no such thing as a cow with blue or red or burgandy skin. The hides are all a neutral tan color when the hairs are removed, so all colored leathers are coated with a surface that protects the actual hide, as even a grain of sand can wear a hole in the actual hide, and also to give the hide a fashionable finish. Back in horse and buggy days, the hides were coated with a lacquer paint, which they used up until the epa regulated the tanning industry in the 1980s. By 1990 everyone had switched to a water based finish, which Leatherique had been manufacturing since 1960. These finishes are "WATER RESISTANT" which means if you spill your coffee and clean it right away you can clean most of it up. NO FINISH ON LEATHER IS WATER PROOF!!!!! So if you leave your window down or sunroof open during rain, your leather will become drenched and harden. Remember in the olden days that was how they formed leather into armor and shields, by wetting it down and forming it to the warriors body.
The point is that all leather will absorb the proteins and collagens in the Rejuvenator through the finish, and through the stitch holes and migrate laterally and people who tell you leather is sealed are spreading falsehoods. Leather is two stratas, the actual hide which must be kept nourished to maintain tensile strength, luxurious suppleness and prevent the hide from cracking and becoming dry. The top strata is the surface color, which can wear off from normal use. Jeans and cords are like 600 grit sand paper and can wear a hole in your bolsters and arm rests if you don't keep the surface color in tact. Your steering wheel is a great example of how coated leathers can wear. Steering wheels have an extra coating of protective finish on the already finished or coated leather. Perspiration and dirt are absorbed greedily into the dry leather, and combined with the uv rays of the sun a chemical reaction occurs that degrades the hide. All of us have seen this wear on steering wheels.

So, regardless of what commercial surface dressing with it's intoxicating armoas or temporary shine you prefer, you are welcome to use them. Remember they are only a surface dressing that sits on top and traps dirt on the surface and into the pores of the lather. But for the sake of your forgotten hide, you should use Rejuvenator 2 to 3 times per year just to keep the actual foundation of the leather strong and supple. Follow this with Prestine Clean to actually get the hides clean occasionally so they can breathe and last the life of the car.

It makes common sense that if you allow your leather to become dry, it is going to crack, degrade, and you'll be spending thousands to replace it. In a bad economy it is more logical to invest in a quality leather conditioner like Rejuvenator and ph correct clean like Prestine Clean that will actually do something for your hide and for your detailing dollar.

Credit George

Jesstzn

George Pavlisko? I'd like to see the source of that article .. might be benificial reading.

TOGWT

See also http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...eatherique.htm

Jesstzn

Thank you TOGWT .. as with everything reading all of the info is helpful ... as was post #13 in that thread.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

So what's your conclusions on leather care products something like 303 to protect the surface? I have used leatherique on previous leather seats (coated) and it has been able to really soften them up and remove all the dirt and grime.

Jesstzn

I think the protectant is more personal choise .. to me the key is keeping them clean as the dirt/abrasion is the biggest enemy.

One of the protectants I liked best was the VW branded one and it was made by Eagle 1 . All I tried seem to add the "slip" factor.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

If they add the slip factor they probably have wax in them. I still love zaino leather in a bottle that stuff is awesome, great smell, makes your leather soft with NO slip. I still think Leatherique is an amazing product have you ever used it?

adamb113

Great Info
Are "Rejuvinator" and "Pristine Clean" both Leatherique products? Does Zaino make an equivalent? They seem to be much less expensive.
Is it worth buying the kit with all the spoonges/special brushes? Will an old cotton T-shirt do the same thing?
Thanks,
Adam

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

rejuvinator & prestine clean are both by leatherique and need to be used together. I have never used the kit with all the brushes just ordered the bottles separately. Zaino makes a cleaner and a conditioner but like I said I consider leatherique to be like a one a year thing while I use Zaino every few weeks for the smell really (only the conditioner)

exceldetail

Slip is actually a good thing! Ever tried claying without a "slip" factor? Thats what your pants do to your leather when you get in and out. More friction=wear.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a good theory but I hate slippery leather!

ed_423

so any product where it is jsut ONE thing to keep it clean and make it last? i dont reli feel like having 10 bottles jsut for my leather seats.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

no

exceldetail

Optimum Protectant Plus.....

Jesstzn

And the Woolite Solution for cleaning them ..

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

ahhh thats two!!

I say woolite and and Zaino Z10, never used Optimum but theres no way it smells better then Zaino and its not just for the smell Zaino products are all very good

adamb113

How does Lexol rate as a more regular (3 times a year or something) cleaner conditioner?
It'a at Autozone and $5 for each
I purchased Leatheruqe and plan on using it once a year.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Lexol is ok but really not that great IMO. Seriously order a bottle of Zaino Leather in a bottle you will not regret it !

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...duct_Code=Z-10

adamb113

o.k I got leatherique and am very very confused.
I let the restorer soak in for half a day and then cleaned it with the prestine clean. So then I noticed something very strange. Dimples and indents on some of the leather.???????? Ideas?????? Very concerned

Jesstzn

Did you read all the above posts?

adamb113

Took a look what did I miss?

Jesstzn

The product is more geared for uncoated leather ..

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

let it completely dry never use leatherique in my TL but have used it on coated leather with much success in the past

mdkxtreme

I use Turtle Wax Total Interior Care.......if anybody cares.

TOGWT

Leatherique

[Leatherique arose from a need to find a product that would restore the leather in his 1939 Bentley. Nothing he tried was adequate for this special car, so he approached Peck about creating something new. After a lot of work, they produced Leatherique”] Leatherique

This type of top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as Mercedes-Benz, Daimler AG and BMW. This is the market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated

The leather care myth that will not go away... if it’s good enough for a Ferrari or a Rolls Royce it must be good enough for my vehicle. The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours, protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes them more resistant to heavy wear and stains.

The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often they don't feel or smell like real leather. Just remember you are dealing with the finished (polyurethane) coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself.

[Leatherique Pristine Clean is part of a two-step leather maintenance system. Step one - Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is a protein collagen complex that is absorbed into the hide to nourish it, and while it will expel dirt to the surface, it does not harm the dye in any way. This oil nourishes the leather and forces contaminants out of the pores.
Step two - Pristine Clean then removes these contaminants from the surface of the leather and leaves it with a clean, matte sheen. This is the only leather care system that calls for the conditioner to be used first, and it makes perfect sense! The leather absorbs as much of the oil as it can and expels the rest to the surface, along with all the contamination.] Leatherique